The topic of shio kōji. Still created just as it was long ago/Yokohama

Translated from the original article at: http://news.kanaloco.jp/localnews/article/1202280046/

February 28, 2012

Blanketed in the rising steam, Kyō Kawaguchi removes the rice and wheat from the huge barrel= The Kawaguchi Kōji Store of Yokohama City's Seya Ward

Lately, many cookbooks being published have covered the topic of shio kōji. At a factory in Yokohama City's Seya Ward, raw ingredients are used to produce kōji according to long-held traditions. The name of the place is Kawaguchi Kōji, established in 1818.

The kōji production season lasts from October until June of the following year. Though it's difficult for bacteria to thrive in the cold season of January through March, producing high quality kōji is still easy (because of climate control).

At once, 700 kilograms (three quarters of a ton) of steaming rice and wheat are inserted into the wooden barrel. As the contents begin to cool, the kōji culture is mixed in. Inside a cellar, the appropriate temperature is maintained while the fermentation process completes itself.

Instead of the popular white kōji, the traditional yellow kōji culture was utilized. It's said that the meticulous temperature control process can mean the difference between producing a sweet flavor or an umami flavor. 

"I've been working with this kōji batch since November of last year. The store already sold out by mid-morning. Production can't catch up. No one knows how to get this flavor without the traditional production methods," said Kyō Kawaguchi (36), 9th generation kōji artisan. It's said that because of the importance of  serving local customers, orders taken from within Kanagawa prefecture are given priority.

Original text:

話題の塩麹、昔ながらの製法で/横浜

2012年2月28日

もうもうとわき上がる湯気の中、米や麦を木おけから出す川口恭さん＝横浜市瀬谷区の川口糀店

最近、レシピ本が多く出版されて話題となっている塩麹（こうじ）。その原料となる麹を昔ながらの製法で生産する工場が横浜市瀬谷区にある。１８１８年創業の川口糀（こうじ）店だ。

麹作りは10月から翌年６月がシーズン。１月から３月までのものを寒仕込みといい、雑菌が発生しにくく、質のよい麹が作りやすい。

一度に約７００キロが入る木おけで米と麦を蒸し、粗熱を冷ましながら、麹菌を混ぜる。ムロに入れ、適温を保たせながら、発酵させると完成。

麹菌は一般的に使われる白麹ではなく、昔ながらの黄麹が使われている。温度管理が難しいが甘みやうま味が違うという。

「塩麹は昨年11月から手掛けている。店に卸しても午前中で品切れに。生産が追いつかないが、昔ながらの製法でないと納得のいく味が出せない」と９代目の川口恭さん（36）。地元の客を大事にするため、神奈川県内の注文を優先するという。